Kyle Johnson, who made some great, great wines at now-defunct Olsen Estates in Prosser, is back with his Purple Star label. This wine uses 95% Olsen grapes from the Yakima Valley along with a touch of Red Mountain fruit, and it is superb. It opens with aromas of gooey brownies, dark fruit, sizzling bacon and moist earth. On the palate, it reveals hedonistic flavors of plum, blueberry, blackberry jam and roasted meat. It’s a big, dark, brooding wine with a great finish. Alas, it is sold out, but a new vintage is now for sale.