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Thurston Wolfe 2010 JTW Reserve, Washington, $16
Wade Wolfe recently released three Port-style wines from the 2010 vintage, and each one shows a master’s touch. The JTW blends three Portuguese varieties grown in the Yakima Valley — Tourica Naçional from Lonesome Spring Vineyard with Tinta Cão and Souzão from Upland Vineyard — in equal amounts followed by barrel aging for 26 months. That answers to the aromas of Raisinets, cinnamon toast, Ovaltine and cedar. The rich and smooth entry brings generous flavors of strawberry, black cherry and plum with orangy acidity. Only on the second pass do the espresso ground tannins begin to develop, while the residual sugar (10%) and the alcohol are skillfully integrated.
Rating: Outstanding!
Production: 100 cases
Alcohol: 19%
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