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Apex Cellars 2012 Late Harvest Semillon, Columbia Valley, $18
Some of Washington’s best dessert wines made with this white Bordeaux variety were produced off Phil Church Vineyard by Covey Run Vintners. That longtime brand closed in 2012, which opened the door to other wineries seeking to make stickies from this historic site in the Yakima Valley. Ron Bunnell also used Precept site Canyon Ranch Vineyard for this, and harvest came Nov. 5. There’s a hint of botrytis in the honeyed nose of apricot glacéed, apple and orange peel. Its thick viscous structure could be mistaken as an ice wine, and there’s a reward of ripe peach, pineapple uspide-down cake and white raisin flavors with a delicate finish of jasmine. The residual sugar is 9%, so serve this sipper well-chilled and pair with a fruit-themed cheesecake or cheese plate.
Rating: Excellent
Production: 1,269 cases
Alcohol: 10.9%
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