Helix by Reininger 2010 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $30

Here’s an elegant and lighter approach toward Syrah, one which allows for a focus on the fruit from Phinny Hill and StoneTree vineyards — in part because Walla Walla winemaker Chuck Reininger chose to use no new oak during the construction. That accounts for the aromatic profile of Marionberry, black cherry and boysenberry with mere hints of violet, cigar box, white pepper and dark chocolate in the background. Flavors tilt toward boysenberry, fresh plum, cherry and red currant in front of lovely tannins and graphite-like minerality. Blueberry acidity makes for a long and juicy finish.

Rating: Outstanding!

Production: 589 cases

Alcohol: 14.5%

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