Lawrelin Wine Co. 2001 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $48

Goose Ridge winemaker Kendall Mix got acquainted with fruit from the Williams family of Kiona and the Milbrandt brothers on the Wahluke Slope during his days at “The University of Ste. Michelle,” and he selected both for the personal project he launched in 2000. His goal is to prove that Washington wines age, and he does that well with this cooler-vintage Syrah, which he bottled in 2003 after about 18 months in 67% new oak. There is a slight bit of bottle bouquet with dried cherry, dried strawberry and cassis before the arrival of Marionberry, pencil shavings, anise and a hint of wild game. There’s a dusty elegance to the well-crafted palate with fresher fruit notes of blackberry and plum, followed by black licorice. The still-firm tannins could misled some into believing this was more Bordeaux than Rhône, and it’s finished with Chukar Cherry flavors. The brand is pronounced as “Lor-relin” — a blend of his parents names Lawrence and Elinor, so ask for the wines accordingly at Compass Wines in Anacortes, Impulse Wines and Full Pull Wines in Seattle, Yoke’s Fresh Market near Mix’s home in Richland and his winery website

Rating: Excellent

Production: 135 cases

Alcohol: 14.3%

Winery website