Tamarack Cellars 2010 Tapteil Vineyard Reserve, Red Mountain, $50

Red Mountain winemakers/growers Larry and Jane Pearson just celebrated the 30th anniversary of Tapteil Vineyard — one of the oldest, highest and breeziest sites on Red Mountain — and much of their fruit goes to some of the state’s most acclaimed wineries. Ron Coleman and Danny Gordon at Tamarack Cellars increased the size of this bottling from their 2009 version, but they stayed with a formula of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Merlot. This bold release seems beautifully timed for many reasons, starting with its remarkably expressive nose of blackberry syrup, black currant jam and dark cherry, backed by bittersweet chocolate savings, espresso, squid ink and dusty road. That’s a precursor for the structure, which opens with sweet black cherry juice then explodes with more blackberry and black currant flavors amid intense Red Mountain tannins to create a rich and huge mouth feel. A long road can be charted for this, but for those who can appreciate big Cabs and robust Petite Sirah, there’s no need to wait.

Rating: Outstanding!

Production: 100 cases

Alcohol: 14.4%

Winery website

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