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Waitsburg Cellars 2014 The Aromatics Chevray Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley, $18
Jon Zimmerman takes over in Prosser, Wash., for Ron Bunnell as the hands-on winemaker on this Precept label with critic Paul Gregutt, and this is their Vouvray-style approach with Chenin Blanc. Hence, they send lots from 30-year-old Yakima Valley sites Upland Vineyard and Roza Hills through 100 percent oak — all of it neutral — for four months. It hints at barrel-fermented Chardonnay with aromas of toast, dusty Golden Delicious, lemongrass and beeswax. There’s also a bit of toast on the palate with round flavors of white peach and dried apricot on the rich midpalate. The finish is bone-dry with a touch of lime peel and warmth. Enjoy with delicate white fish, tofu stir fry or quiche.
Rating: Excellent
Alcohol: 14.6%
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