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Winter’s Hill Estate 2014 Reserve Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills, $29
The Pinot family ranks among the most genetically unstable varieties, and Willamette Valley vintner Russell Gladhart spotlights a 1-acre block in his family’s vineyard that grows Pinot Gris as a mutation. They’ve dubbed this now-managed mutation as “Pinot Pierre” – a tip of the cap in part to Gladhart’s father, Pete. And nearby Lange Family Estate calls it “Indigene” and has been bottling it under its Domaine Trouvere brand starting with the 2008 vintage. The Gladharts harvested it Sept. 23 and present it in a dry style, and their winemaking includes neutral oak barrel fermentation, which creates aromas of dried apple chips and apricot alongside banana meringue and beeswax. There was no malolactic fermentation, allowing for flavors of Granny Smith apple, dried pear and peach pit, backed by lemony acidity. Suggested pairings include grilled rock fish or a cheese plate featuring Camembert or Brie.
Rating: Recommended
Production: 46 cases
Alcohol: 13%
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