Love & Squalor 2012 Antsy Pants Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $48

By on November 10, 2016

love-&-squalor-antsy-pants-pinot-noir-2012-bottleMatt Berson’s popular Antsy Pants tier affords him most exploration, and he capitalized on the classice and abundant 2012 vintage to expand his efforts — and production of his reserve Pinot Noir bottling. His previous release focused on clone 667 fruit from Saikkonen Vineyard in Ribbon Ridge and Pommard off Winter’s Hill in the Dundee Hills. He’s back with both, including two barrels from Stirling Fox’s site on the eastern flanks of Ribbon Ridge. For this, he also blended in single barrels from Cherry Grove (Gaston, Ore.), Cuddihy (a 1971 planting near Yamhill) and clone 115 fruit from underrated Methven Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. His choice of 18 months in predominantly neutral French oak still yields a sachet of spice aromatics hinting a cinnamon bark, cloves and star anise with fruity tones of raspberry jam and baked plum. It delivers a juicy and spicy flulid with sweet cherry and cranberry flavors that are held up by cherry skin tannins, a pinch of pipe tobacco and a plummy finish. Berson described this as “bolder, more oak” than his longtime supporters maybe accustomed to, which is why he left it in bottle for two years before releasing. “I am sure we could all wait longer to drink it,” he adds.

Rating: Excellent

Production: 150 cases

Alcohol: 13.6%

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Articles credited to Great Northwest Wine are authored by Eric Degerman and other contributors. In most cases, these are wine reviews that are judged blind by the Great Northwest Wine tasting panel.

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