Ancient Lakes fascinates as young Washington wine region

Milbrandt Vineyards 2015 Evergreen Vineyard Traditions Sweet Katherine White Wine, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, $13

Best Buy! Two decades ago, 1997, the Milbrandts began to establish their vineyards along the Wahluke Slope and the Ancient Lakes. Evergreen Vineyard is arguably their most prized planting, and the Milbrandt brothers named this off-dry Riesling for their late mother — Katherine Leone Milbrandt. Few Rieslings from famed Evergreen are made in a sweet style, but this one is spectacular and complex, opening with aromas of apricot, white peach, nutmeg and white pepper with a pinch of mustard seed. Inside, it’s big and luscious with more peaches, apricots and Key Lime pie. There’s plenty of sugar (4%), yet clementine acidity explodes to create a long and lovely finish. Suggested pairings include Panettone Bread Pudding.

Rating: Outstanding!

Production: 233 cases

Alcohol: 10.5%

Winery website