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Forgeron Cellars 2014 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $28
French expat Marie-Eve Gilla continues to rank among Washington’s premier producers of Chardonnay, and her deft touch shows in the talented way she works with grapes from six vineyards in four distinctly different American Viticultural Areas. There’s Celilo and Underwood Mountain from the cooler Columbia Gorge, and Crawford and French Creek in the Yakima Valley, venerable 33-year-old vines at Weinbau on the warm Wahluke Slope and Dionysus just downstream in historic Sagemoor. It’s elegant and showy with floral and citrus zest aromatics, then lemon meringue pie filling and mineral elements on the palate. Her use of 35% new French oak barrels for nine months doesn’t cloud the bright acidity that urges one to take another sip, then another and yet another. Suggested accompaniments include Fettuccine Alfredo, oysters, salmon risotto or scallops in a light cream sauce. This received a gold medal at the 2017 Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition during October in Hood River, Ore.
Production: 1,289 cases