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Mercer Family Vineyards 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills, $13
Best Buy! Prosser High product Jeremy Santo took over the winemaking for the Mercers with this vintage, and his debut for them with Sauvignon Blanc is beautiful. While the Sauvignon Blanc under the Mercer Estates tier has featured their Princeton Vineyard, this example under their new Mercer Family Vineyards brand expresses the family’s Culloden and Spice Cabinet sites. There’s a faint whiff of the smokiness that prompted Mondavi to call his wine as “Fumé Blanc”, but Santo avoided oak to better present other classic aromas of gooseberry pie and lemongrass. They are joined on the palate with a slice of Granny Smith apple and a long trail of lime juice. While not as bone-rattling crisp as an example of Marlborough, this comes with layers of flavor, enjoyable weight and complexity. Suggested pairings range from shellfish and white fish dishes, salads that feature olives or capers, and soft cheeses.
Production: 1,904 cases