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Ponzi Vineyards 2017 Riesling, Willamette Valley, $22

The Ponzi family planted Riesling in 1970 and begin producing it in a dry style inspired by Alsace from 1974 to 1993. Alas, U.S. consumer interest in Riesling waned, prompting the Ponzis to take a decade-long sabbatical from bottling it until 2005. Luisa Ponzi’s expression from the 2017 vintage, which she likened to 2010 and 2011, settles in between “dry” and “medium dry” on the International Riesling Foundation Taste Profile scale as the residual sugar checks in at less than 0.7%. Those original plantings make up 34% of the blend, which is led by another estate planting, Alloro (43%) and complemented by Riesling from the Campbell family at Elk Cove (23%). It’s done dry from start to finish, opening with lemon, peach, slate and petrol joined by cajeput and lemongrass. Bosc pear and starfruit dominate the flavors that finish in mouthwatering fashion.
Rating: Excellent
Alcohol: 12.2%
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