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Cedergreen Cellars 2018 Viola Rosé, Columbia Valley, $16

Kevin Cedergreen continues his tradition of well-priced, food-friendly wines with this bright rosé crafted with Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc – two varieties that speak of the Loire Valley in France. The Kirkland, Wash., winemaker pulled from a pair of sites in the Yakima Valley, the Gamay from Skyline Vineyard and the Franc from 10-year-old Melody Lane Vineyard in the Yakima River Canyon, with the resulting blend an even split. There’s no wood involved in this salmon-colored rosé, which showcases aromas of the sweet herbs of the Cab Franc along with fun hints of peach taffy, tangerine and tutti frutti. On the palate, it is remarkably complex for a rosé as flavors of peach and melon pick up a dash of white pepper while leaving the herbaceousness behind. Tangerine acidity and a splash of cherry/vanilla keep the focus on ripe fruit without any sense of sweetness – because there’s no sugar left behind. And the low-alcohol profile will serve it well alongside smoked trout or a food-and-cheese plate.
Rating: Excellent
Production: 261 cases
Alcohol: 12.8%
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