Valcan Cellars 2016 Rainbow’s End Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $32

As the winemaker for Silvan Ridge, JP Valot works with larger lots of Pinot Noir. While he focuses on Syrah, Malbec and Tempranillo for his own young label, he shows off his versatility with this hedonistic example of Pinot Noir from Rainbow’s End Vineyard, a site in the Coast Range foothills southwest of his Valcan Cellars tasting room in downtown Corvallis. He devoted nearly two years in a four-barrel program that included one new cask, which helps make for a nose of Moroccan spices behind blackcurrant, blueberry and sun-dried cherry tomato. There’s a rich and full mouthfeel surrounding those same ripe purple fruits, which are capped by fine-grained tannins and elderberry.

Rating: Excellent

Production: 104 cases

Alcohol: 14.8%

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