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Phelps Creek Vineyards 2019 Underwood Mountain Vineyards Riesling, Columbia Gorge, $28

Owner/retired pilot Bob Morus and the team at his Hood River, Ore., winery use the German term for “half-dry” – halbtrocken — to help describe its sugar profile, and this is one of several examples of Riesling using Columbia Gorge fruit that’s produced by winemaker Bill Swain. Underwood is a prized, east-facing site above White Salmon, Wash., that was planted by Jack Brady, another retired pilot, and here’s a highly quaffable example of Underwood Riesling. The nose hints at a spoonful of apple sauce and pear butter with nutmeg, jasmine and piña colada candy. They carry onto the palate with the sugar arriving early, followed by apricot glacéed and peach, a combination that gives way to a skillful balancing burst of Limeade acidity for a fun and frothy finish. Suggested pairings include sausages and a cheese plate.
Rating: Excellent
Production: 141 cases
Alcohol: 10%
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