In perhaps the most timeless image of McMinnville winemaker Remy Drabkin, she’s behind a tasting bar wearing a white tank top and a black hoodie and posing alongside two bottles of her Sangiovese from Kiona Vineyards. That photo is from a few years ago, but her relationship with the Williams family for the famous Italian red grape goes back a decade as she’s gradually shifted from Oregon’s Rogue Valley to Washington’s Red Mountain. Her latest release ranks alongside the Northwest’s best efforts with the native of Tuscany that many New World producers strive to produce in a high-scoring fashion but often come up short. This finds the mark from a variety of angles, starting with aromas of black cherry, dried ginger, mocha and light toast from the 14 months in barrel. Its structure of red currant and raspberry is charming, bright and juicy while finishing with orange zest and a sense of savory that hints at truffle. For those in her club, Drabkin recently opened up sales of her 2019 Riserva Sangiovese from historic Kiona.
Rating: Outstanding! 93 points
Production: 150 cases