The guiding light for Grüner Veltliner in the U.S. continues to be Southern Oregon winegrower Stephen Reustle, and his use of dolium – a concrete egg for fermentation and aging – the Austrian term for “off-dry” go a long way in describing this expression of the white grape he’s most known for. Its nose mimics a Riesling as a whiff of petrol comes in behind other notes of dusty Golden Delicious apple, agave nectar and butternut squash. On the palate, it carries a fair bit of residual sugar, which is dealt with for the most part as flavors of apple and crushed Bartlett pear give weight to the midpalate as the acidity builds into a finish of peach candy. The critical success for his program and interest in a slightly sweet expression Grüner have prompted Reustle to double his Dolium production since the 2015 vintage. Suggested pairings include Asparagus Salad with Cajun Radish and Lemon Zest – a recipe that’s available through the Reustle family’s newsletter to wine club members.
Rating: Excellent — 88 points
Production: 117 cases