Matt Berson’s Portland Wine Company works with historic Sunnyside Vineyard near Salem’s Enchanted Forest for this deliciously nerdy interpretation with Gewürz. Grapes from vines planted in 1981 by Tom Owen and Luci Wisniewski are presented with a salmon rosé-ish color and unfiltered, and that helps with the enticing aromas of underlying Gewürz florals and spiciness of yellow grapefruit, pineapple, ginger, apricot fuzz and rose petal. Most of those qualities make their way to the bone-dry palate that’s finished yellow grapefruit pith and a twist of lemon. Rarely is this German grape presented in this way, and it’s certainly not a Gewürz for Grandma. In fact, Berson promotes it as both a rosé and an “natural orange wine.” And its food-friendly profile lends itself to steamed mussels, clams and linguini, oysters on half shell and other Salish Sea fare.
Rating: Outstanding! — 91 points
Production: 100 cases