WALLA WALLA, Wash. — This spring, the Walla Walla Valley transformed into a Mecca for wine enthusiasts from all points of the globe for Hospice du Rhône — a celebration surrounding the 22 varieties native to the Rhône Valley.
Renowned as a stage for winemakers, industry professionals and consumers, the event offered many opportunities to learn about and enjoy Rhône wines in all their variations.
Patrons and participants also got the sense that Hospice du Rhône Walla Walla marked an exciting chapter for the Pacific Northwest wine industry, reinforcing the Walla Walla Valley’s role as a “New Old World” destination that blends heritage with modernity and tradition with innovation.
A verdant green version of the Walla Walla Valley provided a gorgeous backdrop with the weather cooperating most of the time, providing more than 1,000 attendees an eyeful as well as enjoying beautiful wines from more than 150 producers.
Though HdR is produced by a California-based non-profit organization, wines from Washington and — in particular — those from The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater (Ore.) in the Walla Walla Valley were prominent alongside examples from France, Spain, California, Arizona and other areas of Oregon. The group’s flagship biennial event was staged in Paso Robles, Calif., from 1998 through 2022.
As Liz Knapke, executive director of Walla Walla Valley Wine, noted, “It was wonderful to see first-time visitors experience what we like to call the ‘Walla Walla Way’ — the charm, natural beauty, and friendly nature of our valley.”
“HdR significantly impacted the entire valley, boosting both the wine industry and the local economy, with over 1,000 visitors coming to the event,” she added. “The influx of visitors bolstered local business, from hospitality to retail with attention to the downtown core, reinforcing Walla Walla’s position as a center of excellence in winemaking, winegrowing and visitor amenities.”
Doug Frost, the Master of Wine, Master Sommelier and CEO of young Echolands Winery in Walla Walla, said the presence of HdR in the valley provided affirmation for the work being performed in the region with Rhône-inspired wines.
“Rhône varieties have already proven their importance for us,” Frost said. “The event offers a rare opportunity to taste a plethora of exceptional wines from around the world, fostering camaraderie, and mutual appreciation among attendees.”
Echolands winemaker Brian Rudin pointed to the kinship among wineries from the diverse regions as “a similarity in how much genuine friendliness there is amongst wineries from each region.”
Brooke Robertson of SJR Vineyard and Delmas Wines said her favorite part was that “Everyone checks their ego at the door. People were jovial and approachable and were just there to learn and have a good time. The events of the week just made you feel good… seeing friends from afar, hang out into the hours of the night, talking shop and catching up.”
Baron adds spark to Hospice du Rhône Walla Walla
The Live Action lunch was a testament to this spirit. Bids soared amid laughter, sparked by the early appearance of Christophe Baron dressed as his alter ego — the Bionic Frog.
“There were only positive vibes. That is what Rhône varieties wines do to you!” Baron exclaimed. “I could feel it all around town, you know what I mean?”
A dinner for eight with HdR-inspired Kobayashi winemaker Travis Allen and Seattle-based Eight Row restaurant fetched a staggering $20,000. That item pushed the results of the auction beyond expectations.
Baron, the visionary and founder of Cayuse Vineyards and the first modern-day winemaker to plant in “The Stones of the Walla Walla Valley” and the now-extolled The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater American Viticultural Area, wore his frog mask during the auction while presenting the winning bidder a bottle of wine. The affable Biodynamic-focused vigneron was visible and engaged throughout the week, lending his charm and wisdom to winemakers and consumers. This summer, Baron will be fêted as the year’s Honorary Vintner for the Auction of Washington Wines in Woodinville.
“HdR is the best wine event that has ever been in Walla Walla, period!” Baron declared. “This was not HdR’s first rodeo. They know how to organize a world-class event for four or five days, and they are pros. The quality of the tastings, the seminars, the lunches, wine diners with worldwide-renowned vignerons and more.”
In 2011, four years before the federal government established The Rocks District as an AVA, Hospice du Rhône recruited Baron to serve as a presenter at its annual Blackberry Farm event in Tennessee. And while “The Rocks” has become a darling of the Rhône world, Walla Walla Valley winemakers often selected wines from afar as those they most admired. Corey Braunel of Dusted Valley Vintners leaned toward France — Domaine Yves et Mathilde Gangloff – Condrieu, Château de Saint Cosme and Domaine de la Solitude. However, he also came away impressed by Epoch Estate from the York Mountain AVA west of Paso Robles, Calif.
Renowned winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla and Watermill’s Brian Roy agreed Gangloff was among the stars of the festival. Roy particularly enjoyed Condrieu, while Gilla was enchanted by Côte-Rôtie expressions. Vieux Télégraphe wowed Robertson, who quickly added, “It’s hard to pick a favorite.”
Another takeaway was the praise many had for the examples from South Africa. Lacey Lybecker, co-owner of Cairdeas Winery overlooking Lake Chelan, said, “It’s always fun to taste the South African wines!”
Frost added, “I’ve long been enamored of the beautiful country and its successes with Rhône grapes.”
For Braunel, “One of the biggest surprises for me was the South African wines. The wines show a tremendous approachability and balance.
“There are several producers that are really doing some extraordinary things to build complexity in the wines, and those tend to stand out to me,” Braunel continued. “It was a pleasant surprise that I do not get to enjoy very often here in the U.S.”
On Thursday evening, The Rocks District staged a welcome party in downtown Walla Walla at The Motor Co that proved to be a hit for all. Many noted remarkable similarities between The Rocks and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The soil series within that Rhône appellation greatly resembles the cobblestones in The Rocks District with the primary difference being CdP is granitic in makeup. It’s basalt in The Rocks.
Robertson, whose father Steve Robertson was instrumental in the petition for The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, says, “The Rocks District is one of the premier growing regions for Rhône varietals. The area is utterly unique in that it offers a different approach to Rhône wines due to terroir and winemaking styles. It’s wonderful to taste benchmark wines coming from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other areas of the Rhône, but our growing climates are quite different.”
As attendees bid adieu to HdR, they shared a collective desire for its return and to perpetuate the celebration of Rhône grapes — and to reaffirm the Walla Walla Valley’s standing in the global wine community.
My father, C.N. Groetsema who lived and worked in Walla Walla from 1938 to 2003 and became co- owner of Eastgate Drug, Southgate Drug and the Book Nook Drug would be so proud of his precious driven roots town, and to see what has become of it. His dream was to put the town on the map and grow it for everything it was worth.
Congratulations to Walla Walla and Hospice du Rhone from a former Walla Wallan who is homesick.