DeLille Cellars 2015 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain $68

Founding winemaker Chris Upchurch and heir apparent Jason Gorski used two estate vineyards for the foundation — Grand Ciel and Upchurch — with Ciel du Cheval (26%) and Klipsun (14%) adding historic subtext. Barrel spice from 20 months in 75% new French oak and...