Brooks Wines 2010 Janus Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $35

One of the most compelling brands in the Oregon wine industry names its flagship wine for the Roman god of the future and the past — which reflects on this heartwarming two-generation project that’s been tended on behalf of the late Jimi Brooks by winemaker Chris Williams for Jimi’s son, Pascal. Our panel first tasted this bottling a year ago, and it’s held true to form. Dominated by fruit from the Brooks Estate, it opens with aromas of red cherry, Craisin, dried raspberry and violets, backed by beet juice, hay and moist earth, the latter of which is attributed to the 18 months program of French oak. Tones of red-toned fruit flavors include ripe raspberry, red currant and Rainier cherry. Juicy acidity and mild tannins make for a harmonious structure and the finish flourishes with complexity of minerally earth, slate and a long trail of strawberry. Suggested pairings by master sommelier Chris Blanchard include pork tenderloin or duck with mushrooms. This remarkable operation is scheduled to move into a new winery and tasting room in the Eola-Amity Hills during September, and their wines are available in 19 states.

Rating: Excellent

Production: 800 cases

Alcohol: 12.2%

Winery website