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Barnard Griffin 2013 Fumé Blanc, Columbia Valley, $10
Best Buy! Napa icon Robert Mondavi labeled his Sauvignon Blanc as “Fume Blanc” in the late 1960s to promote the historically dry style produced in France’s Loire Valley, and Rob Griffin continues to pay tribute with this stunning bottling that’s balanced with Semillon (24%). This Richland, Wash., vintner may know Sauvignon Blanc from the Columbia Valley better than anyone, and his fruit sources include Preston Vineyard, a parcel he began making wine from in 1977. Sagemoor Vineyard, Gunkel, Lonesome Spring Ranch and the Griffin family’s estate Caroway Vineyard near Wallula Gap also play roles here. The influence of Sauvignon Blanc rules with aromas of gooseberry, lime juice and pear, but the sweet hay note hints at the Semillon. The drink is bright and refreshing with pleasing gooseberry pie, Asian pear and lime juice tartness, backed by minerality that makes for a terrific finish. Suggested fair includes steamer clams, oysters on the half shell and steamed mussels.
Rating: Outstanding!
Production: 7,300 cases
Alcohol: 12.9%
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