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Mark Ryan Winery 2017 Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, $40

Woodinville producer Mark Ryan McNeilly celebrates this 20th anniversary of the founding of his eponymous brand, and this reserve-style Chardonnay marks the fifth year of his collaboration with Olsen Vineyard, a historic and versatile two-generation vineyard that’s proven to be a garden spot for Chardonnay production and cool-climate varieties. Here, McNeilly’s work showcases Dijon clone 76 and the fascinating 809 clone. Referred to as a “musque” clone, it adds a wonderful tropical hint behind the aromas of orange Creamcicle and Sugar Frosted Flakes, set up by the French oak barrel program (46% new) and influence of stainless steel (14%). The reserve style that’s indicated in its rich yellow shows on the creamy palate of pear butter and toast, backed by lemony acidity, butterscotch and rosewater.
Rating: Excellent
Production: 548 cases
Alcohol: 14.1%
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