Those who want to taste history and be among of the first in U.S. to do so can thank the Björnson family in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills for their delicious job of pioneering Gouais Blanc, pronounced Goo–aaay Blahn. Scott Sabbadini, whose résumé includes University of California-Davis and Maryhill Winery, has shown himself to be a quick study of this white grape that research can link to the reign of Charlemagne and a parent of more than 80 varieties. That range includes Chardonnay, Riesling, Auxerrois, Ailgoté and even Gamay Noir. Rather than establishing these vines on the estate that surrounds their tasting room, the Björnsons introduced it at Pamar Vineayrd, their new 86-acre site in the Van Duzer Corridor. Sabbadini skillfully handled the grape’s furious acidity first by fermenting the lot in a concrete egg and then shaving the profile just a hair with an oak program that involves three seasoned barrels. And yet, it’s abundantly fruit-forward in the nose, starting with fresh-pressed Granny Smith apple juice and gooseberry, a sprinke of white pepper and a whiff of nougat that would seem to be the only sign of those barrels. The drink is incredibly citrusy and succulent as penetrating flavors of lemon Quench Gum, green apple and lime lead out with a lick of orange Gatorade powder. Those who seek out nerdy Sauvignon Blanc will appreciate this, as will those who pair it with fish tacos, fresh seafood or a bowl of gazpacho.
Rating: 92 points — Outstanding!
Production: 60 cases
Alcohol: 13.2%
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