Those wanting to know if a restaurant is serious about their wine list can quickly figure that out by seeing if Argyle’s storied sparkling wine program is represented. The team surrounding Nate Klostermann, in his second decade as head winemaker at the Dundee, Ore., landmark, playfully refers to this sparkling Chardonnay as a “Baby Extended Tirage” because it is aged on the lees five years — rather than a decade — prior to disgorgement. That explains why the nose offers hints of light brioche rather than yeastiness, as well as lemon curd, orange blossom, dried ginger, Golden Delicious apple and flecks of minerality often associated with the Eola-Amity Hills. Pleasing frothiness makes for a classic delivery of those aromas as flavors, joined by refreshing bursts of quinine and lime in the mouthwatering finish. Enjoy anytime, especially as an aperitif. The release of this bottling from the 2018 vintage is just around the corner, and fans of Argyle, Klosterman and/or Portland-grown saxophonist Eldon T Jones can learn more about each when they meet for their free community Jazz and Wine Conversation at 3:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 24 as part of the 2024 Biamp Portland Jazz Festival.
Rating: 94 points — Outstanding!
Production: 450 cases
Alcohol: 12.5%
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